Treasure Hunt #2

A true transformer

Article

May 2026

Those who look closely, see more. From ingenious objects and beautiful invitations to lines of poetry or something lovely from nature. Treasures found on, around and far from the editorial office that caught our attention. Today: Van Cleef & Arpels’ ingenious necklace resembling a zipper, which can be transformed from a chain into a bracelet.

Fig 1. Van Cleef & Arpels, Zip Antique Rayon necklace transformable into a bracelet, 2026, yellow gold, pink sapphires, diamonds | photo: © Van Cleef & Arpels

Nicole Ex: ‘I reread the essay that curator Frits Scholten wrote for See All This #41 on the exhibition Metamorphoses at the Rijksmuseum (on view until May 25). It brought to mind the Van Cleef & Arpels jewels I first encountered at TEFAF – pieces that would not have looked out of place in that world of constant transformation. There is an ingenious necklace resembling a zipper, which can be transformed from a chain into a bracelet. A true transformer.

The story behind the jewel is at least as remarkable as its design. In 1930s Paris, designer Elsa Schiaparelli captivated the fashion world with her avant-garde couture, incorporating visible zippers – until then only associated with practical garments. Inspired by the emergence of the zipper in couture, Renée Puissant, artistic director of Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, conceived an equally ingenious and elegant translation of the idea into haute joaillerie.

A patent was obtained in 1938, but it took more than a decade of research to technically realise and perfect the design. In 1950, the first version of the Zip necklace was introduced. It has since become an icon within the collection, with new variations in colour and materials still being created.’

Did you know: it is said that when purchasing a piece of jewelry, men tend to value craftsmanship and technical ingenuity, while women are more often drawn to the beauty of the piece itself.

Read the first TREASURE HUNT here.