Cooking with Li Jin

In de keuken met Li Jin

Article

No. 12 • December 2018

A parade of squids, tubers, and lobsters passes by on Li Jin's illustrated banquet. The preparation methods for these ingredients are also featured: in calligraphy, Li Jin writes recipes from Yuan Mei’s Suiyuan Shidan, a classic of Chinese cuisine.

Fig 1. Li Jin, Ode to Life

Text: Sarah Knigge

Yuan Mei (1716–1798) was an obsessive and fanatical eater. According to the Chinese poet, food was one of nature’s most sensational gifts. To not indulge in it would be an insult. So, when he had a spectacular meal somewhere, he would send his cook to replicate the dish. He would then work out the recipe on paper, complete with necessary commentary.

All those notes eventually led to a book, the Suiyuan Shidan, the first edition of which was printed in 1792. It became the great classic of Chinese gastronomy. A classic that not only inspired many chefs but also artists. Like Li Jin (1958), who, like Yuan, shares his fondness for earthly pleasures. In his drawings of lavish banquets – in which he often appears himself, accompanied by luxurious women – the ancient recipes are echoed in Chinese calligraphy.

Now that Yuan’s exegesis has finally been translated into English (see p. XX), anyone can become adept at the traditional Chinese kitchen. Although, for some, the recipes from Recipes from the Garden of Contentment might be a bit of a stretch, as they lack exact measurements and have an overly concise step-by-step guide. So, let’s start with a few essential do’s and don’ts. As Yuan tells us, just like in science, we must first understand the things before we can apply them practically.

Fig 2. Li Jin, Hive Center for Contemporary Art

YUAN’S DO’S AND DON’TS

Work only with the best ingredients. The quality of the dish is 60% determined by the chef and 40% by the person who buys the groceries.
Begin drinking only after the meal. If your guests are too drunk to speak, how can they discern flavors?
If your guests have drunk too much and become sluggish, serve sweet and sour food to give them a boost.
Always give compliments or constructive criticism to cooks. Otherwise, they will become lazy and indifferent.
Every ingredient has unique properties. Do not force or exaggerate these for personal gain (read: boasting about your cooking skills).
When your guests are almost full, serve spicy dishes to restart their appetite.